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Learn the rules to the board game Monopoly City quickly and concisely - This video has no distractions, just the rules. For the normal rules of monopoly, check out this video: https://youtu.be/IPYH4dnhdHg Don't own the game? amazon.com - https://amzn.to/3bJ7jam amazon.ca - https://amzn.to/3rHNhVU amazon.uk - https://amzn.to/3rExcAn (As an Amazon Affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases) 0:00 – Objective 0:15 – Setup 0:42 – Starting 1:11 – Districts 1:39 – Building Blocks 2:35 – Railroads 3:20 – New Spaces 3:35 – Planning Permission 4:26 – Paying Rent 4:49 – Skyscraper 5:10 – Monopoly Tower 5:40 – Original Spaces 6:04 – Stadiums 6:37 – Go to Jail 7:07 – Trading 7:29 – Mortgage 8:03 – Out of Money 8:19 – End/To Win RULES: The object of the game is to be the richest player at the end. Layout the board and shuffle the chance deck and place it face down on the table. Place the rent dodge card next to free parking. Give each player a reminder card. Each player picks a token and places it on Go. Give each player six 5 and 1 millions. Two 500, 200, and 100 thousands. One 50,000. And five 10,000 money bills. Decide how long you will play, either until a certain number of players go bankrupt or for a certain length of time, like 1 or two hours. Turn on the trading unit. Roll dice and the player with the highest roll goes first, then play proceeds clockwise. On your turn, roll both dice and move your token exactly that many spaces clockwise around the board, then perform actions based on where you landed. You may then build. If you roll doubles you get to roll and move again and build again. If you roll doubles 3 times in a row, then immediately go to jail and do not complete your 3rd turn. If you land on an unowned district, you must buy it for the price listed or auction it. To auction it, press the auction button on the trading unit. Bidding starts at ten thousand and can be increased by any amount. Players do not have to bid in turn order. When the time runs out the auction ends and the player with the highest bid, pays the bank the bid price. Once you buy a district, you take the district card and put it in front of you. To build, it must be your turn. Press the build button on the trading unit. The number that shows is the maximum number of blocks you can build this turn. Gray residential buildings and blue industrial buildings, called properties, each have 3 different block levels of buildings: 1 block, 2 blocks, and 3 blocks. The price per block can be found on your district cards. You may build on any district you own in a single turn. Buildings are placed inside the colored district area on the board. You may not have more than 8 blocks in any district. Residential buildings are cheaper but if a hazard is placed in your district then they are worthless and do not count towards the rent value until the hazard is removed. Industrial buildings cost more and are safe from hazards. You can consolidate space in a district by combining smaller buildings into larger ones of the same color. If the trading unit shows a train instead of a number, then you can build a railroad on any district for free. Railroads are placed on the outer track of the board rather than in the center. When you land on a district that has a railroad, you may move to any other district that has a railroad. If you pass go collect 2 million from the bank. If the space with the railroad is owned by another player, you still have to pay them rent before you move. If the destination is unowned, you may buy it or auction it. If someone else owns it, you must pay them rent. If you own it, nothing happens. If you start your turn on a railroad, then you may not use it, but roll and move as normal. If you land on an auction space, you must put any unowned district on the board up for auction. If you land on an industry tax space, pay the bank the amount shown if you own any industrial buildings. If you don’t own any, do nothing. If you land on a planning permissions space you must build a bonus building or a hazard. Both of these buildings are free and do not count towards the 8 block maximum per district. Bonus buildings are red and can be built on any unoccupied district or any district you own. Hazards are black and can be built on any unoccupied space or any opponent’s district. Only 1 hazard or 1 bonus building may occupy a district at a time. Bonus buildings prevent hazards from being built in them. Hazards block residential buildings from contributing to the rent level. To remove the rubbish hazard you must pay 1 million to the bank. The power station and sewage plant cost 1.5 million. And the prison costs 2 million....

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Click for more info and reviews of this Yakima Roof Bike Racks: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Yakima/Y02122.html Check out some similar Roof Bike Racks options: https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Accessories_and_Parts-sf-Roof_Bike_Racks.aspx https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe! https://www.youtube.com/user/etrailertv Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-Review-Yakima-SmarT-Slot-Mounting-Kit-Roof-Bike-Racks-Y02122.aspx Hey everyone, it's Evangeline here at etrailer. And today we have the Yakima SmarT-Slot Kit, for your roof mounted bike racks. And this is going to be used with your Yakima HighRoad, or your HighSpeed bike racks. We have them available here as a kit here at etrailer. But, if you happen to have the clamp version of these bike racks and you need to add on the T-slot kit, this is what you're going to use. And I'm gonna show you how to get it installed. So the first question is why would you need a T-slot adapter kit Well, I personally am a huge fan of the current clamps that your Yakima bike racks are going to have. They are straps that wrap around your crossbar, very low profile and easy to use. However, there may be situations where these are not sufficient for you, for mountin' to your rack. One situation might be if you're mounting your bike rack to the crossbar, and you have the tower in the way of where the clamps are supposed to go. Then you're not able to mount the bike rack where you want it. Another option, or possibility, is maybe you have an extremely low profile roof rack. And you do not have enough clearance for the straps to go around your bar and then into the rack. (strap clatters) In those situations, you may need an adapter kit so you can mount solely to the top of your crossbar. And if you have a ladder rack or heavy duty crossbars, chances are extremely high that you're gonna need the T-slot adapter kit. These straps, while they're great for most crossbars, might be a little too small for those extremely large ladder rack bars. So then again, you're gonna have to secure it to the channel. So I'm gonna show you how to get your straps and clamps switched around. All you're gonna need is a flathead screwdriver. Everything else is going to be included with your kit. Let's start by removing the old strap. So if you open up this strap and push this lever all the way out, you're gonna see this barrel over here. And if you don't see the barrel, then tighten down your reel (reel clanking) until you get access to it. The flathead screwdriver is there so that you can push the sides of this barrel out of the way. You also may need to just lift up on that reel, see that pop out like this, and then you can also remove it by hand. Once this is out, you can then pull on the strap, from underneath your bike rack. It may need a little bit of pulling, in order to remove it from the rack. (plastic clatters) Removing the straps is all you need to do on the ground. The rest is gonna be up at your roof rack. So, you're going to set up those T bolts. You are gonna need two for the front and one for the back. Depending on your roof rack, inserting the bolts may be as easy as pushing down on the weather ship, sliding the bolt through. Other crossbars require cutting up weather strips. The most important thing is getting these bolts in the general area of where you want your bike rack to be. Now get your bike rack, and you are gonna have to be up on the roof in order to see where the bolts are, because you want to line the bottom of the rack with those bolts, so that they push right through. This may be a little easier to do (rack clanks) if you can fit your hand underneath there. But we have our front lined up and we can get the back lined up too. Secure the bolt with the included nut. And, to tighten this down, you do have a tool also included with your kit. Tighten this down to 25 inch pounds or three newton meters. But to double check, make sure it's not moving, with a good old shake test. Once all three nuts are secured, then your final step is to cover them up with the included caps. So these are going to fit into these slot that you're straps used to go into. Push down, and then push that lock into place. (hand thumps) Once it's done for all three, you're done with the install. It does take a little bit more work compared to a strap, but ideally, you shouldn't have to do this very often. When your bike rack is in place, a lot of people just leave this on their rack, because now that you've adapted your bike rack into a channel mounted rack, it's very sleek, there's nothing underneath, and you have a very secure fit on your roof rack system. So hopefully this video helped you out with seeing how you can change your straps into a channel mount on your bike rack. This is gonna work for Yakima HighRoad, as well as HighSpeed bike rac

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